Into Africa: First Face to Face with Mountain Gorillas | Terra Incognita Ecotours

Into Africa: First Face to Face with Mountain Gorillas


Saturday, October 13, 2012


Very early in the morning entering the place where people meet from around the world to view the gorillas. Here, we are ultimately divided into groups of eight - no more than eight can see the gorillas at any one time. We are in the Virunga Mountains (a series of volcanoes) in Rwanda.

It all begins with a performance....music, smiles - and still no coffee. How do they do it? And at high altitude. This is a ll done to keep tourists about to see the gorillas occupied while those in charge figure out who among the tourists will see which gorilla groups.

How do they balance these things. I tried (later in the trip). and I SO failed.

At this location is also a gorilla graveyard - Robin and I are standing in front of it. All in all, a beautiful setting to be buried. If a mountain gorilla is found dead, veterinarians from the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project will usually conduct a necropsy (animal autopsy)

Note Robin's red bandana - it will be a focus later. Members of our all star group hearing about another group, the group of gorillas we are about to meet.

We are about to meet these gorillas - the groups are named for the dominant silverbacks, this one is Amahoro. In most groups (including this one) some young gorillas (maybe even a baby or two), young adult males and females, females, blackback males and generally only one silverback in charge.

And away we go. We could have hiked from 30 or 40 minutes to 3 hours to see the gorillas. Ours was not an easy hike, it last nearly 2 hours, but the terrain was rough (never mind the altitude issue for those not accustomed).

As we enter the forest, we walk on paths (so that's easy) and by local farmers' families - including very cute children.

Here's Robin and armed guard... I suppose the guns could be for gorillas. But they've never been needed for that. However, wild buffalo can charge and ask questions later. Gorillas are peace loving - as you will see. if you're expecting King Kong, go to the late late show on TV, not to Rwanda.

The impenetrable forest - well, not exactly....but it is dense, and sometimes you are on paths, often not. A leader has a machette to cut the way (if need be). Each tourist has his or her own porter. That makes it A LOT easier. The porter carries a back pack and water too. But for these guys, it's all a walk in the park.

Along the way, you may see other wildlife....well, this is one example. The largest worm I've ever seen! Way cool.

Robin leads the way

I believe a Jackson' chameleon - but still no gorilla - not yet anyway.

Now, there's some excitement...you put down your stuff....backpacks and food in it....leave it there with the porters. And now just you, your cameras and some gorilla trekkers (how's that for a job title). First you hear grumbling (it's gorilla conversation), and then crunching of food.

And now we're spotted by the gorillas - and here's what happens...

Nothing happens - the gorillas are SO habituated, they continue on as if we're not even there.

They even go about their personal business.

A big guy might even take a nap

But then other gorillas had other things on their minds. As I was taking this photo, this adolescent male moved closer and closer to Robin. At one point reached out to touch her. Maybe interested in her headband. Robin didn't see this happening, as she was busy posing for the photo. How many can say they were 'touched by a gorilla.

This black blob - a young gorilla. Not everyone was napping, not by any means...

You are told to stay 7-meters from the gorillas. But the gorillas didn't read the rules. This guy walks right in front of me. I back off, of course... and back the camera from the zoom mode as much as I can to get any photo at all. He was only a foot or two away.

Here he is

How close - you can do a dental.....and see what they're eating.

Look up over there guys...

Sometimes in trees - mostly, though on the ground. The younger gorillas, in general, more tree loving.

The forest is dense... Just as elephants impact where they live, so do these gorillas. They easily break bamboo, snapping it like a twig. Where 15 or 20 gorillas lounge and lunch, the forest is impacted. Bu then the gorillas move on. And in this climate the forest grows back fast. The gorilla population here is doing well, solely because of tourism.

After seeing the gorillas - and wow, amazing... you do receive a certificate. I suppose in case you all don't believe these photos.